Last week I had the joy of being back in one of my favourite places –  the Anti-Atlas Mountains of Morocco. Such a fantastic multi-pitch trad paradise with hundreds of routes and still so much room for development!



I was out there guiding Lindsay from Washington DC, who is a keen climber and was up for proper multi-pitch adventure!  We had just three days there to get in as many classic routes as possible.


For those of you interested in the details, here’s the breakdown:


South Side – Tafraout

Day 1 – Tizgut Gorge

  • Tizgut Rib VS 4c
  • Ahmed VS 4c
  • Tizgut Corner HVS 5a
  • Right Recess VS 4b


North Side – Jebel Kest

Day 2 – Afantinzar Valley – Lower Eagle Crag and Ksar Rock

  • Pink Lady VS 4c, 230m
  • Sahara MVS 4b / Jedi Groove HVS 4c


Day 3 – Samazar Valley – Waterfall Walls

  • Above the Water HVS 5a, 400m





Our last day was pretty full on, as we left Tafraout for the more remote walls of the Samazar Valley. The walls here are massive, with routes up to 800m. We chose a top 50 HVS called ‘Above the Water’ on Waterfall Walls. This route has some sick exposure and isn’t to be underestimated as there are sections of loose rock… proper adventure climbing. From door to door we took about 10 hours with about eight and a half hours of non-stop climbing – a brilliant way to finish off the trip.


If you are up for an Anti-Atlas adventure or looking for an introduction to multi-pitch climbing in an exotic location with great sunshine then get in touch for this autumn, winter or spring as this is the season to head to Tafraout!  And for a review of the brilliant guidebook produced by Oxford Alpine Club check out my blogs here.










Categories: Anti-Atlas, Blog, James, Jebel El Kest, Tafraout, Trad
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