The latest in-depth Toubkal winter conditions report


Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Having a go on some Grade V ice!

Good ice climbing up for grabs


Yesterday I was out climbing with Luke, Aid, and Rob from the UK. We arranged to meet up on the path from Imlil to the refuge to climb on the cascades I have posted about over the last couple of months. We had a fantastic time working our way up the short pitches culminating at the upper tier and the steepest climbing (Grade V ice!) at this venue.  Great day out guys and hope all went well with the bivvy on the NE ridge and summiting Toubkal today!




Overall the snowpack is consolidating well at about the 2,900m mark and below. The freeze/thaw cycles are doing their job and, with stable conditions forecast and the continuation of the freeze/thaw cycles at 3,500m and below, stability should only improve.


Please note… with the amount of snow that is around be aware off heavy-laden slopes especially in the afternoon as the snowpack become saturated and bonds weakened through warming. Be aware of deep powder laid over a hard crust!


At higher altitudes where the freeze/thaw hasn’t hit, teams of mountaineers and climbers have been reporting soft, dry deep powder (typical for the High Atlas at this time of the year). The snow needs more time to consolidate and firm up at the higher, colder altitudes.


Climbing Conditions


The chock stone route on Afella is in good condition at grade IV, but Curtain Call M7, VII (mixed route to the left) still needs some more ice on it. As mentioned above, the cascades are in good condition. Routes higher up are either unconsolidated or too thin and need more snow. The alpine ridges are a great option with routes like the AD+ South West Ridge of Toubkal West.


Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Rob & Luke on the second tier, North West cwm, Afekhoi

Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Aid on lead!


If you are interested in mountaineering on the alpine ridges contact us on the address below and for a quick overview of our Alpine Ridges trip see


Logistics for your Toubkal winter trip


If you are looking to get out in the mountains here and need some assistance with arrangements, we offer logistics packages to suit your needs including arranging transport to and from Marrakech, mules and porter support, food and route advice. Get in touch with us at!


Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Grade V pitch – Upper ice tier, North West cwm, Afekhoi


Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Toubkal Refuge path (between Sidi Cham 2,350m and refuge 3,200m)


Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Upper ice tier, North West cwm, Afekhoi


Toubkal winter conditions, 7 February 2014

Good snow cover in the High Atlas!

Categories: Blog, Conditions, High Atlas, Ice Climbing, James, Morocco, Mountaineering, Winter
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