Latest Toubkal Winter Conditions Report

I was back out to Morocco and up in the High Atlas this week! The conditions were fantastic with hard neve everywhere:-)


Looking across from the South Col route up Toubkal at: Afella, Biguinoussene and the Tadat Col


Me not far from Tizi Ouagane 3,730m


Snow Cover & Snowpack

Snow cover is generally very good once you get to around the 3,000m mark and even lower on North facing aspects! And as mentioned the snowpack was good neve. There is a big dump of snow in the forecast for this weekend which will raise the avalanche risk if it materializes! It would be wise to let the snowpack settle a bit also watch out for big drifts and windslab deposits. The winds are set to change quite a bit over the following days which will mean really watching where it deposits the new snow and avoiding it. Also, with the hard neve and suncrust layers will potentially provide a sliding surface for the fresh snow, so be diligent in watching the wind and assessing the snowpack. from 16-3-17



Approach slope that leads to the South Col


Climbing Conditions  

The ice and mixed lines looked to be in good conditions on Toubkal West, Ras, and Afella.  A lot of the single pitch ice around the refuge and heading toward Tizi Ouagane looked to be pretty rotten. Chockstone route is in good condition and the Afekhoi cascades look good and should stay in.





Not such good ice near Tizi Ouagane




The mountaineering conditions are brilliant at the moment, but this will change with the new snow. Time will be needed for the new snow to consolidate and bond with the old snowpack.


Refuge Access

The snow line on the path to the refuge was well above Sidi Chamharouch (2,350m), but will come down close to Sidi Cham over the weekend. These means mules will only get a bit above the Sidi Cham and porters will be needed to carry kit and supplies the rest of the way.  



Winter Conditions Summary

Stable weather over the last three weeks has firm up the snowpack providing brilliant neve, but a lot of fresh snow is coming in over the weekend which will raise the avalanche risk.


The fresh snow will overlay a hard suncrust and neve snowpack which will mean an easy sliding surface for fresh snow. Watch the winds next over the weekend and week and avoid windslab & big drift deposits. The mountaineering will continue to stay very good, but caution and good route finding is necessary over the next week or so while the new snowpack consolidates and bonds to the old snowpack. The bigger mixed lines on Toubkal West, Ras, and Afella are in condition!


James, Full-time guide/instructor for TMP

For a personalised trekking, guiding or instruction service and/or logistics for Toubkal and the High Atlas, get in touch with us here at The Mountain People!


Disclaimer: as a mountaineering instructor I have had avalanche risk assessment training and have a good level of experience but am by no means a professional avalanche forecaster. These reports aim to give you a general idea of the winter conditions for a few days ahead and the risks involved but please be diligent in checking weather forecasts yourself and monitoring the conditions when you are out in the High Atlas.




South Col of Toubkal



Categories: Blog, Climbing Information, Conditions, High Atlas, Ice Climbing, James, Morocco, Mountain Information, Winter
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