Toubkal with the sunrise – photo taken from near Ras 4,083m – 2-3-16

Latest Toubkal Winter Conditions Report –  March 8, 2016

The Toubkal Massif is a winter playground at the moment! I got back from a 7-day trip that took in most of the 4,000m peaks in the range, and for the most part found good winter conditions. Harald (professional photographer from Austria) and I had some pretty epic early starts over the week as we were keen to make the most of the sunrise and its good lighting!




Coming down the main gully on Akioud (standard route). See the ski touring group in the nearing the col. 5-3-16


Snowpack and Snow Cover

Again the snowcover is brilliant in the High Atlas and the overall conditions underfoot are good as the snowpack has consolidated and firmed up considerably. We came across some skiers over the week who were enjoying the more northerly aspect slopes. A few of them mentioned that there is good skiing, but you do have to work to get to it.




Ras, Akioud, Afella, etc. Good snow cover on the 4,000m peaks!


I did run across some suspect layers which showed signs of weak bonding to the adjacent layers but these were mostly in the big gully lines and more northerly aspects. Also, found isolated pockets of the graupel layer (mentioned in my last post) in some of these areas, so continue to be aware when out and about. With the current forecast the snowpack will continue to turn to good neve and generally be stable.



Screen Shot 2016-03-08 at 11.55.01 AM – taken this morning 8-3-16


Climbing Conditions

The big routes on Toubkal West now look good for climbing, but you may encounter soft snow on some of the routes! The route Corredor ENE del Ras, D, 500m route continues to stay in good condition. Unfortunately the big lines on Afella looked a bit thin and most of them not complete.




South col of Toubkal and Toubkal West! 3-3-16


The Afekhoi cascades will give some good single pitch ice climbing! Chockstone Gully and Curtain Call (the ice smear on the left of Chockstone) is thin near the top, still look in good condition but the smear is missing the lower section of it. Overall there is good ice and mixed climbing at the moment and with the freezing level staying around the refuge height the climbing and mountaineering should continue to stay good in the Toubkal Massif.




Afekhoi cascades! 3-7-16


Refuge Access

Porters are still essential for getting supplies and extra gear up to the refuge as the track has still has snow on it. Mules can as far as Sidi Cham 2,350m and a bit higher but not all the way to the refuge. Do make sure to pay your porters and muleteers properly and keep to 80kg for a mule load and 20 to 25kgs for a porter!




Toubkal Massif yesterday morning 7-3-16


Winter Conditions Summary

March is shaping up to be a good month for those looking for good winter conditions in the High Atlas. The snow pack is generally speaking consolidating well and quickly becoming firm neve. There are weak layers in the big gully lines and more northerly aspects slopes but with care should be ok. The mountaineering and climbing is great with the ice and mixed climbing good at the moment and should remain that way with the current weather forecast.


For a personalised trekking, guiding or instruction service and/or logistics for Toubkal and the High Atlas, get in touch with us here at The Mountain People!


James, Full-time guide/instructor for TMP

James, Full-time guide/instructor for TMP

Disclaimer: as a mountaineering instructor I have had avalanche risk assessment training and have a good level of experience but am by no means a professional avalanche forecaster. These reports aim to give you a general idea of the winter conditions for a few days ahead and the risks involved but please be diligent in checking weather forecasts yourself and monitoring the conditions when you are out in the High Atlas.










Categories: Blog, Climbing Information, Conditions, High Atlas, Ice Climbing, James, Morocco, Mountain Information, Mountaineering, Winter
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