Category Archives: Conditions

Ice Climbing Morocco

Me on a brilliant route I climbed with Simon: Dec 2011 on Toubkal West

James on a brilliant route climbed with Simon: December 2011 on Toubkal West

We are now offering logistics-only support for those who want to take advantage of the excellent annual winter climbing conditions in Morocco: see our Morocco Ice Climbing page.


The choice is huge, from single-pitch water ice routes practically on doorsteps of the refuge to long, technical mountain routes. New routing and adventure characterise the High Atlas, which comes into its own in winter and is a winter climber’s paradise.


Check out Mountain Guide Mike ‘Twid’ Turner’s write-up, ‘Moroccan Ice’, on DMM’s website about ice climbing opportunities in the High Atlas based out of the Toubkal refuges:


If you want to get hold of the two guidebooks mentioned in the post, here are the ISBNs and further details:


  • Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas, Des Clark. ISBN: 978 1 85284 611 4. See our Publications page.


  • Toubkal Guía de ascensiones y escaladas, David Taurà. ISBN: 978 8 49829 141 4. Available from the Desnivel website.








Categories: Blog, Conditions, High Atlas, James, Morocco, Winter
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Mgoun Winter Mountaineering


Mgoun Ridge

I was recently with Des in a remote area of the eastern High Atlas mountains. We hoped to get three lovely gentleman from the UK on to the summit of the “other” 4000m peak Mgoun, but due to high winds we couldn’t summit. This peak is the only 4000m peak not found in the Toubkal area. I had never been to the area and was there to get my head around the logistics for future trips and to get familiar with the route in to the refuge.


I was blown away by the beauty and quietness of the area. For anyone wanting to get away from the busyness and noise of life and the more traveled and accessible mountains, this is the place for you! We weren’t the only ones staying at the Tarkeddit refuge (2900m) – several teams of ski mountaineers were passing through as well. Be on the look out for our new brochures for ski tours in the High Atlas for 2014.




The day before traveling east a much-needed storm came through which brought fresh snow to the Atlas. We will give you more details when Des returns from the Toubkal area. The Ait Bougammez and Mgoun region also received fresh snow. We found patches of wind slab on northerly aspects on our walk in to the refuge and on a acclimatisation day (an alternative to our summit day due to high winds) where we came to within 100m of Tizi (col) Igandoul (3640m).


Good luck to Greg, Peter and Chris who are now in the in the Toubkal area with Des! Hope the new snow has firmed up and you guys have a great time.


Facebook album: Mgoun Trip Feb 2013


Categories: Blog, Conditions, High Atlas, James, Morocco, Winter
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