Tag Archives: Toubkal ice climbing

Potential Ice Routes (Toubkal South Cwm)


Following on from my last blog, I wanted to flag up a couple of potential ice  routes that come into condition in the later part of the winter season (April/May) in the High Atlas. You can see the snow bowl above one of the routes that feeds the formation with thaw/freeze cycles. See picture to the right.


Both of these potential routes are on the right side of the south cwm of Toubkal as you are approaching the south col (the normal and easiest route up Toubkal). I am not sure if these have already been climbed, but I am looking forward to getting my tools into them next season! I imagine that the routes would have been in better condition about a month ago.


Check out the link for more pictures on the two routes: Potential Ice Routes


A side note: my wife and I are enjoying being based in Imlil (the striking out point for Toubkal and the other 4000m peaks that are in the Toubkal National Park) for the summer. Check out this panoramic view I took from the roof of our little flat.




Categories: Blog, High Atlas, James, Morocco, Winter
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Ice Climbing Morocco

Me on a brilliant route I climbed with Simon: Dec 2011 on Toubkal West

James on a brilliant route climbed with Simon: December 2011 on Toubkal West

We are now offering logistics-only support for those who want to take advantage of the excellent annual winter climbing conditions in Morocco: see our Morocco Ice Climbing page.


The choice is huge, from single-pitch water ice routes practically on doorsteps of the refuge to long, technical mountain routes. New routing and adventure characterise the High Atlas, which comes into its own in winter and is a winter climber’s paradise.


Check out Mountain Guide Mike ‘Twid’ Turner’s write-up, ‘Moroccan Ice’, on DMM’s website about ice climbing opportunities in the High Atlas based out of the Toubkal refuges:




If you want to get hold of the two guidebooks mentioned in the post, here are the ISBNs and further details:


  • Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas, Des Clark. ISBN: 978 1 85284 611 4. See our Publications page.


  • Toubkal Guía de ascensiones y escaladas, David Taurà. ISBN: 978 8 49829 141 4. Available from the Desnivel website.








Categories: Blog, Conditions, High Atlas, James, Morocco, Winter
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